Diesel Fall Winter 2023 Collection Analysis
The Diesel Fall/Winter 2023 collection, designed by Glenn Martens, boldly tackled themes of sex positivity and safe sex through its provocative collaboration with Durex. Presented at Milan Fashion Week, the show featured a mountain of 200,000 condom packs and invitations made from Durex packaging, setting the tone for a provocative yet playful runway experience. Inspired by 1980s aesthetics with nods to the 90s and early 2000s, the collection explored themes of freedom, pleasure, and confidence. Martens used denim, mesh, and upcycled materials to create garments that appeared to melt or evaporate off the body—emphasizing sensuality and experimental design.
The collection wasn’t just about shock value; it tied its message to serious historical context. With references to the AIDS epidemic of the 1980s and ongoing HIV issues today, the line promoted sex positivity while reminding audiences of the importance of safe sex. Cultural nods like TLC’s condom-accessorized looks reinforced this message, while the runway soundtrack—techno beats interrupted by moans—added an immersive and provocative layer. Martens’ message was clear: safe sex is still relevant and can be addressed creatively and unapologetically through fashion.
Visually, the show included bold silhouettes, distressed denim, mesh details, and inventive layering. Highlights included mesh-and-denim sheath dresses, jackets and skirts with facial prints, and even integrated eyewear and utility boots. Diesel's branding was reimagined through a Durex-style logo, and the overall styling leaned into edginess and playfulness. Ultimately, Martens proved unafraid to push boundaries, creating a collection that was controversial, innovative, and unforgettably tied to a meaningful message.